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	<title>Hinkle's Heating &#38; Air Conditioning Service Repair Replacement</title>
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	<link>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com</link>
	<description>Your Residential Home and Business Heating and Air Conditioning Rapair, Design, and Replacement Contractor and Specialist (PA014515)</description>
	<pubDate>Mon, 15 Nov 2010 01:22:33 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Keystone HELP®</title>
		<link>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/keystone-help%c2%ae/page-292</link>
		<comments>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/keystone-help%c2%ae/page-292#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Sep 2009 17:15:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[ENERGY STAR]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Environmental]]></category>

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		<category><![CDATA[Keystone HELP®]]></category>

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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/?p=292</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
With the Keystone HELP® Energy Efficiency Program, most Pennsylvania homeowners who meet the program&#8217;s eligibility guidelines can get a low cost loan for ENERGY STAR®rated and high efficiency heating, air conditioning, air sealing, insulation, windows, doors, geothermal and “whole house” improvements using Home Performance with ENERGY STAR®. These lower rates can save consumer thousands of dollars over the life [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>
<p><span class="style11"><span class="style47">With the <strong>Keystone HELP® Energy Efficiency Program</strong>, most Pennsylvania homeowners who meet the program&#8217;s <a href="http://www.keystonehelp.com/info/who.php" target="_blank"><strong>eligibility guidelines</strong></a> can get a low cost loan for <a href="http://energystar.gov/" target="_blank"><strong>ENERGY STAR®</strong></a>rated and high efficiency <strong>heating, air conditioning, air sealing, insulation, windows, doors, geothermal and “whole house” improvements</strong> using Home Performance with ENERGY STAR®. </span></span><span class="style47">These lower rates can save consumer thousands of dollars over the life of the loan, further enhancing the energy saving from the improvements being made and minimizing out of pocket costs.  <a href="http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/pennsylvanias-special-low-rate-low-payment-financing-program-for-energy-efficiency-home-improvements/page-288">Read More</a></span></div>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION</title>
		<link>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/environmental-protection/page-256</link>
		<comments>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/environmental-protection/page-256#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 18 Jun 2009 19:42:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/?p=256</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Did you know that your home can be a greater source of pollution than your car? In fact, 16 percent of U.S. greenhouse gas emissions are generated from the energy used in houses nationwide.
Energy used in our homes often comes from the burning of fossil fuels at power plants, which contributes to smog, acid rain, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="size-full wp-image-86 alignleft" title="ghg-emissions-heating" src="http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/ghg-emissions-heating.jpg" alt="ghg-emissions-heating" width="288" height="236" align="left" />Did you know that your home can be a greater source of pollution than your car? In fact, 16 percent of U.S. greenhouse gas emissions are generated from the energy used in houses nationwide.</p>
<p>Energy used in our homes often comes from the burning of fossil fuels at power plants, which contributes to smog, acid rain, and global warming. Simply put, the less energy we use in our homes, the less air pollution we generate.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Central Air Conditioner Sizing Tutorial</title>
		<link>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/central-air-conditioner-sizing-tutorial/page-253</link>
		<comments>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/central-air-conditioner-sizing-tutorial/page-253#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 18 Jun 2009 19:35:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Environmental]]></category>

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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/?p=253</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This tutorial will ask you questions about your home’s location, windows, ducts, and insulation. Based on your answers, it will generate an air conditioner sizing recommendation (smaller than, larger than, etc.) and a list of your answers that you can use to work with your contractor.
Some contractors will use rules of thumb to size your [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This tutorial will ask you questions about your home’s location, windows, ducts, and insulation. Based on your answers, it will generate an air conditioner sizing recommendation (smaller than, larger than, etc.) and a list of your answers that you can use to work with your contractor.</p>
<p>Some contractors will use rules of thumb to size your air conditioner, but rules of thumb can overestimate the size needed. A good contractor will use a design load calculation to size a central air conditioner to your home. The contractor will need to check the following six factors.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>How well your house is insulated? ~</strong> By adding the proper amount of insulation to your walls and ceiling or attic, your house will require less cooling. By insulating before you purchase an air conditioner, you&#8217;ll save twice- once when your energy bills drop and again when you need a smaller, less expensive air conditioner.</li>
<li><strong>How well air leaks are sealed?~ </strong>A well-sealed house limits the amount of hot, humid air that gets inside. In many homes the air leaks can add up to as much as an open window. Sealing air leaks and adding insulation can reduce heating and cooling cost by 20%.</li>
<li><strong>How well your ducts are sealed and insulated? ~ </strong>Ducts carry cooled air from your air conditioner to where it is needed. Under-insulated ducts actually heat up, which reduces the amount of cool air that gets to you. Leaky ducts can cause your heating and cooling system to work harder to keep your home at a comfortable temperature.</li>
<li><strong>The size, type and number of windows and the direction they face ~ </strong>The size, type and number of windows are huge factors in determining your cooling needs. Thoughtful landscaping and overhangs can greatly decrease the temperature in your house by affecting the amount of sunshine that comes through your windows.</li>
<li><strong>Shading provided by overhangs and landscaping ~</strong> Leafy trees can reduce unwanted heat in the summer, but allow the warmth of the sun to come in when they drop their leaves in the winter. Well-positioned overhangs will also block the sun&#8217;s heat in the summer, but allow the sun light to come in during the winter to warm your home.</li>
<li><strong>The size, layout, and orientation of your house ~</strong> The size of a house&#8217;s walls and roof and their positions in relation to the sun are important factors in sizing an air conditioner.</li>
</ul>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Stimulus Bill Increases Homeowner Tax Credit</title>
		<link>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/stimulus-bill-increases-homeowner-tax-credit/page-50</link>
		<comments>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/stimulus-bill-increases-homeowner-tax-credit/page-50#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 May 2009 00:38:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[ENERGY STAR]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Environmental]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Heating and Cooling]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://webtechblender.com/hinkle/stimulus-bill-increases-homeowner-tax-credit/page-50</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[


30% tax credit for homeowners who install geothermal heat pump systems in 2009 and later years.  For systems placed in service in 2008, the $2,000 lilmit still applies  So, for example, if a homeowner pays $15,000 for a geothermal heat pump system installed in 2009, a tax credit of $4,500 could apply.http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/f5695.pdf Line 18 on [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="article-rel-wrapper">
<h2 class="contentheading"><a class="contentpagetitle" href="/component/content/article/90-stimulus-bill-increases-homeowner-tax-credit.html"></a></h2>
</div>
<p><img title="Map" src="http://www.geoexchange.org/images/stories/wn_pic1.gif" alt="U.S." align="left" /><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><strong>30% tax credit for homeowners who install geothermal heat pump systems in 2009 and later years</strong>.  For systems placed in service in 2008, the $2,000 lilmit still applies  So, for example, if a homeowner pays $15,000 for a geothermal heat pump system installed in 2009, a tax credit of $4,500 could apply.</span></span><a onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview ('/outgoing/http_www_irs_gov_pub_irs_pdf_f5695_pdf');" href="http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/f5695.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/f5695.pdf</a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Line 18 on the form is where you enter &#8220;Qualified geothermal heat pump property costs&#8221;, Line 19 is where you multiply costs by 30%, and Line 20 displays the $2,000 &#8220;Maximum credit amount&#8221; for 2008.</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">If you use <em>TurboTax</em>, look for the &#8220;<strong>Home Energy Credits</strong>&#8221; topic under Personal Deductions and Credits for Your Home.  <em>TurboTax</em> provides an input box to enter the amount you paid for Geothermal heat pump property in 2008.  As usual, contact your tax professional for applicability to your specific situation.</span></span></p>
<p>For systems placed in service in 2008, use IRS 2008 Form 5695 for the Residential Energy Efficient Property Credit to claim the $2,000 tax credit for Energy Star geothermal heat pumps.  You can view and download the form at the following link:</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Energy Savings Tips</title>
		<link>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/energy-star-home-tips/page-21</link>
		<comments>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/energy-star-home-tips/page-21#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 18 May 2009 19:21:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[ENERGY STAR]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Environmental]]></category>

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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://webtechblender.com/hinkle/?p=21</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Outside House
A/C Unit
When buying new heating and cooling equipment such as a central air  conditioning unit, proper sizing and quality installation are critical  to your home’s energy efficiency and comfort. Remember: Bigger doesn’t  always mean better. Oversized equipment can cause reduced comfort and  excessive noise. Oversizing also can shorten the life [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>Outside House</h2>
<h4>A/C Unit</h4>
<p>When buying new heating and cooling equipment such as a central air  conditioning unit, proper sizing and quality installation are critical  to your home’s energy efficiency and comfort. Remember: Bigger doesn’t  always mean better. Oversized equipment can cause reduced comfort and  excessive noise. Oversizing also can shorten the life of the equipment  by causing it to cycle on and off more frequently than a properly sized  unit. However, undersized equipment can reduce the efficiency and  accelerate wear on system components, leading to early failure. For  more information about sizing, use our <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=sizing.showIntro" target="_blank">Central Air Conditioner Sizing Tutorial</a>.</p>
<h4>Porch Light</h4>
<p>The outdoor porch or post lamp is one of the highest used light  fixtures in a home, and is the perfect place to install ENERGY STAR  qualified lighting products. Many compact fluorescent light bulbs  (CFLs) will fit easily into existing porch lights. Or install a new  ENERGY STAR qualified outdoor fixture that saves energy through  advanced CFL technology, a motion sensor and/or a photocell that turns  the light on only when someone is present or on at night and off in the  morning.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=cal.showPledge" target="_blank">Take the Change a Light Pledge</a> to replace one light at home with an ENERGY STAR qualified one.</p>
<h4>Car/Garage</h4>
<p>Give your car a break. Combine trips whenever possible. Use mass  transit, walk or bike whenever possible. Leaving your car at home just  2 days a week will save 1,590 lbs. of greenhouse gas emissions each  year! Keep your car well-maintained to maximize its fuel efficiency,  safety, and reliability. Check your tire pressure regularly to avoid  the wear and tear and decreased gas mileage that can result from  under-inflated tires.</p>
<h4>Thermal Boundary</h4>
<p>The thermal boundary, also called the “envelope” or “shell,” is made  up of the outer walls, ceiling, windows, doors, and floors of the  house. Air leaks through the envelope and inadequate insulation are two <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_improvement.hm_improvement_solutions" target="_blank">common problems</a> in many homes and can lead to discomfort and to high energy bills. When  the home envelope is performing well, it will help keep you comfortable  and keep your energy bills low during the hottest and coldest times of  the year. Use our Guide to ENERGY STAR Home Sealing to get step-by-step  instructions for sealing common air leaks and adding insulation to the  attic. <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_sealing" target="_blank">Learn more</a>.</p>
<h2>Attic</h2>
<p>The attic is one of the places where you often find the biggest air  leaks, which can increase your energy bills and make you uncomfortably  hot in summer and cold in winter. It is also a place that is generally  accessible, making it easier to air seal and insulate to improve your  home’s comfort and overall energy performance.</p>
<h3>Heating &amp; Cooling</h3>
<h4>Attic Ventilation</h4>
<p>Proper ventilation of the attic with natural air flow keeps the roof  deck cool and dry, extending the life of roof shingles and preventing  ice dams without using the energy needed to run an attic vent fan. Be  sure attic soffit vents and gable vents are not blocked so air flows  freely through them. Some homes have ridge vents or vents through the  roof deck instead of gable vents. Learn more in the <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/ia/partners/publications/pubdocs/DIY_Guide_May_2008.pdf" target="_blank">Guide to Home Sealing</a> <img src="http://www.energystar.gov/images/pdf_tiny.gif" alt="PDF" width="15" height="16" /> (2MB).</p>
<h3>Home Sealing</h3>
<h4>Ducts</h4>
<p>Seal duct connections and seams with duct sealant (also called  mastic) or foil-backed tape to reduce leaks. In unconditioned areas,  like attics and some basements, wrap ducts in insulation (R-6 to R-8 is  recommended). If your ducts are in the attic, you also can cover them  with blown insulation. <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_improvement.hm_improvement_ducts" target="_blank">Learn more</a>.</p>
<h4>Chimney</h4>
<p>Seal hidden air leaks to make your home more comfortable and energy  efficient. Always find and seal air leaks before adding more  insulation. Chimneys or furnace flues that penetrate your attic floor  have holes or gaps around them that can allow the air in your home to  escape through the attic, increasing your energy bill and causing more  drafts. Around chimney and furnace flues that can get hot, cover the  gaps with metal flashing and caulk small gaps with high temperature  caulk. Learn more in the <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/ia/partners/publications/pubdocs/DIY_Guide_May_2008.pdf" target="_blank">Guide to Home Sealing</a> <img src="http://www.energystar.gov/images/pdf_tiny.gif" alt="PDF" width="15" height="16" /> (2MB).</p>
<h4>Plumbing Stack</h4>
<p>Plumbing stacks, vents, ducts, or electrical wires often have holes  or gaps around them that can allow the air in your home to escape  through the attic, increasing your energy bill and causing drafts. Seal  small gaps with caulk and seal holes up to 3 inches in diameter with  spray foam. Cover spaces larger than 3 inches with a piece of foam  board and seal with spray foam. Learn more in the <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/ia/partners/publications/pubdocs/DIY_Guide_May_2008.pdf" target="_blank">Guide to Home Sealing</a> <img src="http://www.energystar.gov/images/pdf_tiny.gif" alt="PDF" width="15" height="16" /> (2MB).</p>
<h4>Attic Hatch or Door</h4>
<p>Weather-strip and insulate your attic hatch or door to prevent air from escaping out of the top of your house.</p>
<p>Air sealing is simply using caulk, spray foam, or pieces of rigid  foam insulation to cover or seal holes, cracks, and gaps where air can  pass into or out of your home. Sealing those air leaks will help reduce  drafts and help get the full performance from insulation. After air  sealing, check if you can see the tops of your attic’s floor joists  (insulation is not covering them). If so, adding more insulation will  likely help lower energy bills. Insulation is designed to resist heat  flow-that is, if it is hot outside, insulation greatly reduces the  amount of heat you can feel inside a house. Or, if it is cold outside,  insulation helps reduce heat losses through the ceiling. Insulation  works best when air is not moving through or around it. Therefore, it  is very important that air leaks be sealed to ensure that you get the  full performance out of any insulation installed. To get the most  savings, the easiest place to add insulation is in the attic. Get our <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/ia/partners/publications/pubdocs/DIY_Guide_May_2008.pdf" target="_blank">Guide to Home Sealing</a> <img src="http://www.energystar.gov/images/pdf_tiny.gif" alt="PDF" width="15" height="16" /> (2MB) and learn how to seal and insulate your attic and reap benefits for years to come.</p>
<h2>Bedroom</h2>
<p>Your bedroom can be both comfortable and energy efficient.</p>
<h3>Lighting</h3>
<h4>Bed-Side Lamp</h4>
<p>Replace fixtures and bulbs with ENERGY STAR qualified lighting products.</p>
<p>Lighting is one of the easiest places to start saving energy.  Replacing your five most frequently used light fixtures or the bulbs in  them with ENERGY STAR qualified lights can save more than $65 a year in  energy costs. ENERGY STAR qualified fixtures feature stylish designs  and are available in a variety of models of lamps and fixtures. ENERGY  STAR qualified compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) provide  high-quality light output, use less energy and last up to 10 times  longer than standard incandescent light bulbs, saving money on energy  bills and replacement costs.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=cal.showPledge" target="_blank">Take the Change a Light Pledge</a> to replace one light at home with an ENERGY STAR qualified one.</p>
<h4>Light Switch</h4>
<p>Remember to always turn off your lights when leaving a room.</p>
<h3>Heating and Cooling</h3>
<h4>Room Air Conditioner</h4>
<p>Considering purchasing a room air conditioner? Consider an ENERGY  STAR qualified model. They use at least 10 percent less energy than  standard models.</p>
<h5>Additional Tips</h5>
<ul>
<li>In the winter, be sure to insulate room air conditioners from the  outside with a tight-fitting a/c unit cover, available at your local  home improvement center or hardware store. This keeps heated air from  escaping outside. Alternately, you can remove the window unit in the  winter months to prevent energy losses.</li>
<li>Be sure the window unit fits tightly in the window so outdoor air is not getting in.</li>
<li>Large window a/c units should have their own separate electrical circuit so the system is not over-loaded.</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=roomac.pr_tips_room_ac" target="_blank">View our purchasing tips</a>.</p>
<p>And remember, <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=roomac.pr_properly_sized" target="_blank">proper sizing</a> is important for room air conditioners too!</p>
<h3>Home Sealing</h3>
<h4>Window</h4>
<p>During the winter months, replace your screens with storm windows to  provide an extra barrier to the cold outside air. Caulk and  weather-strip around windows and door frames that leak air. If  replacing windows, choose ENERGY STAR qualified models designed for  your area, and save $20–$95 each year in energy costs. With proper  installation to ensure all gaps are sealed around them, ENERGY STAR  qualified windows can help improve your comfort, cut drafts, and reduce  fading of interior furnishings.</p>
<p>Besides your windows, sealing your home’s entire envelope is one of  the most cost-effective ways to reduce your energy bill and improve  your comfort. Home sealing reduces uncomfortable drafts and helps avoid  moisture problems by sealing holes, cracks, and gaps. Done right, home  sealing could save you up to 10 percent on your home energy bill. You  can seal your home yourself with help from our Guide to ENERGY STAR  Home Sealing, or hire a contractor for professional services.</p>
<h4>Ducts</h4>
<p>Keep air registers and vents clear to allow air to flow freely throughout the room.</p>
<h3>Electronics</h3>
<h4>TV/DVD Combo</h4>
<p>Look for the ENERGY STAR on consumer electronics products. Qualified  products use less energy without sacrificing quality or performance.</p>
<p>Consumer electronics play an increasingly larger role in your home’s  energy consumption, accounting for 15 percent of household electricity  use. Many consumer electronics products use energy even when switched  off. Electronics equipment that has earned the ENERGY STAR help save  energy when off, while maintaining features like clock displays,  channel settings, and remote-control functions.</p>
<p>Learn about the <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_podcasts" target="_blank">environmental impact of consumer electronics</a> and what you can do to help.</p>
<h4>Outlet</h4>
<p>Unplug any battery chargers or power adapters when not in use.</p>
<h2>Bathroom</h2>
<p>There are many things you can do to save energy in your bathroom.</p>
<h3>Lighting</h3>
<h4>Vanity Lights</h4>
<p>Replace your home’s five most frequently used light fixtures or the  bulbs in them with models that have earned the ENERGY STAR and save  more than $65 each year in energy costs.</p>
<p>The bathroom vanity is one of the highest-use fixtures in the  average home. ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs provide bright, warm light,  use less energy, and generate less heat than standard lighting. Keep in  mind that high humidity can shorten the life of CFLs. To avoid moisture  problems, control humidity in your bathroom by running your ventilating  fan during and 15 minutes after showers and baths. You can find ENERGY  STAR qualified fixtures in hundreds of popular styles, including vanity  lighting, at home improvement and hardware stores, lighting showrooms,  and other retail stores including online outlets.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=cal.showPledge" target="_blank">Take the Change a Light Pledge</a> to replace one light at home with an ENERGY STAR qualified one.</p>
<h4>Light Switch</h4>
<p>Remember to always turn off your lights when leaving a room.</p>
<h3>Heating and Cooling</h3>
<h4>Vent Fan</h4>
<p>Install a properly sized ENERGY STAR qualified ventilation fan to  control moisture in the air while you shower or bathe, as well as  control mold and mildew growth. Run your fan for 15 minutes after  showering.</p>
<p>ENERGY STAR qualified ventilation fans are much quieter than  standard models. Models that include lighting use 65 percent less  energy on average than standard models, saving $120 in electricity  costs over the life of the fan. Qualified models can be found at many  home improvement stores or from your HVAC or electrical contractor.  Also be sure the fan duct leads to the outdoors to prevent moisture  problems.</p>
<p>Learn how to prevent <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_solutions.hm_improvement_moistureonwin" target="_blank">moisture problems</a>.</p>
<p>Learn how to prevent <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_solutions.hm_improvement_moldmildew" target="_blank">mold, mildew, or musty odors</a>.</p>
<h3>Home Sealing</h3>
<h4>Ducts</h4>
<p>Cover and seal all holes that lead from bathroom plumbing, ductwork, or electrical runs.</p>
<p>Improving your home’s “envelope” or “shell” is one of the most  important steps you can take to maximize your home’s energy efficiency  and reduce energy bills. In the bathroom, sealing around drafty  windows, baseboards, and floors can help avoid common mold and moisture  problems.</p>
<h4>Window</h4>
<p>During the winter months, replace your screens with storm windows to  provide an extra barrier to the cold outside air. Caulk and  weather-strip around windows and door frames that leak air. If  replacing windows, choose ENERGY STAR qualified models designed for  your area, and save $20–$95 each year in energy costs. With proper  installation to ensure all gaps are sealed around them, ENERGY STAR  qualified windows can help improve your comfort, cut drafts, and reduce  fading of interior furnishings.</p>
<p>Besides your windows, sealing your home’s entire envelope is one of  the most cost-effective ways to reduce your energy bill and improve  your comfort. Home sealing reduces uncomfortable drafts and helps avoid  moisture problems by sealing holes, cracks, and gaps in the home. Done  right, home sealing could save you up to 10 percent on your home energy  bill. You can seal your home yourself with help from our <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/ia/home_improvement/home_sealing/DIY_COLOR_100_dpi.pdf" target="_blank">Guide to Home Sealing</a> <img src="http://www.energystar.gov/images/pdf_tiny.gif" alt="PDF" width="15" height="16" /> (984KB), or hire a contractor for professional services.</p>
<p>Learn how to fix problems with <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_solutions.hm_improvement_moistureonwin" target="_blank">moisture on windows</a> in your home.</p>
<h3>Water Usage</h3>
<h4>Shower</h4>
<p>A 10-minute shower can use less water than a full bath.</p>
<p>With a new 2.5 gallon-per-minute (low-flow) shower head, a 10-minute  shower will use about 25 gallons of water, saving you 5 gallons of  water over a typical bath. A new showerhead also will save energy — up  to $145 each year on electricity — beating out both the bath and an  old-fashioned showerhead.</p>
<h4>Sink Faucet</h4>
<p>Repair any faucet leaks. A leaky faucet can waste gallons of water.</p>
<p>Hot water leaking at a rate of one drip per second can waste up to  1,661 gallons of water over the course of a year, and waste up to $35  in electricity or $35 in natural gas. Fixing drips is a cost effective  and easy way to save energy.</p>
<h2>Home Office</h2>
<p>Many people now work from home. While this saves time and money on commuting, it can increase home energy bills.</p>
<h3>Lighting</h3>
<h4>Desk Lamp</h4>
<p>Use ENERGY STAR qualified fixtures and light bulbs. Remember to always turn off your lights when leaving a room.</p>
<p>Home office lights are often used for many hours a day. ENERGY STAR  qualified desk lamps or compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) provide  high-quality light output, use 75% less energy, and last up to 10 times  longer than standard incandescent light bulbs, saving money on energy  bills and replacement costs.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=cal.showPledge" target="_blank">Take the Change a Light Pledge</a> to replace one light at home with an ENERGY STAR qualified one.</p>
<h3>Home Sealing</h3>
<h4>Ducts</h4>
<p>Keep air registers and vents clear to allow air to flow freely throughout the room.</p>
<h4>Electrical Outlets</h4>
<p>Seal holes around outlets with an inexpensive outlet gasket.</p>
<h3>Office Equipment</h3>
<h4>Power Strip</h4>
<p>Use a power strip as a central “turn off” point when you are done using equipment.</p>
<p>Even when turned off, electronic and IT equipment often use a small  amount of electricity. For home office equipment, this stand-by or  “phantom” power load can range from a few watts to as much as 20 or  even 40 watts for each piece of equipment. Using a power strip for your  computer and all peripheral equipment allows you to completely  disconnect the power supply from the power source, eliminating standby  power consumption.</p>
<h4>Power Adapter</h4>
<p>Unplug battery chargers or power adapters when equipment is fully charged or disconnected from the charger.</p>
<h4>Multi-Function Device</h4>
<p>Save energy and space with an ENERGY STAR qualified multi-function  device that combines several capabilities (print, fax, copy, scan).  Make sure power management features are enabled for additional savings.</p>
<h4>Computer/Monitor</h4>
<p>Enable power management features on your home computer and monitor.  And look for the ENERGY STAR when purchasing products for your home  office. They use less energy without sacrificing quality or performance.</p>
<p>Most home office equipment is left on 24 hours a day. Remember:  Office equipment that is set automatically to switch to sleep mode not  only uses less energy, it runs cooler and helps the equipment last  longer, allowing for savings on air conditioning, as well. In addition  to power management, you can save more energy with your office  equipment by doing the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>Avoid using a screensaver when your computer monitor is not active  (let it switch to sleep mode or turn the monitor off instead).</li>
<li>Turn off machines when not in use (fax machines, printers, scanners, copiers).</li>
<li>Learn about the <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_podcasts" target="_blank">environmental impact of consumer electronics</a> and what you can do to help.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Living Room</h2>
<p>The living room is a gathering spot for family and friends to spend  quality time. It’s also a place where you can take simple steps to be  more energy-efficient.</p>
<h4>Table Lamp</h4>
<p>Replace your highest-use fixtures or the light bulbs in them with ENERGY STAR models.</p>
<p>Living room table and floor lamps are two of the most used light  fixtures in a home. Conventional torchiere lamps also can be the  highest wattage light fixtures in the home. ENERGY STAR qualified  lighting fixtures and replacement bulbs can be found at home  improvement and hardware stores, lighting showrooms, and other retail  stores, including online outlets.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=cal.showPledge" target="_blank">Take the Change a Light Pledge</a> to replace one light at home with an ENERGY STAR qualified one.</p>
<h4>Ceiling Fan w/ Lighting</h4>
<p>Depending on when and how you operate them, ceiling fans can provide comfort and help you save on your energy bills.</p>
<p>In the winter, your ceiling fan can help improve your comfort. Most  fans have a switch that allows you to reverse the motor and operate the  ceiling fan at a low speed in the counter-clockwise direction. This  produces a gentle updraft, which forces warm air near the ceiling down  into the living space.</p>
<p>In the summer, run the blades clockwise (downward) to cool more  efficiently. On hotter days, dialing up the thermostat by only two  degrees and using your ceiling fan can lower air conditioning costs by  up to 14% over the course of the cooling season. Use low wattage CFLs  in the ceiling fan light fixture for cooler light bulbs and more energy  savings. And remember: Ceiling fans cool only people, not the room, so  when you leave the room, turn the ceiling fan off.</p>
<h4>Light Switch</h4>
<p>Remember to always turn off your lights when leaving a room.</p>
<h4>Drapes</h4>
<p>During cold weather, take advantage of the sun’s warmth by keeping  drapes open during daylight hours. To keep out the heat of the summer  sun, close window shades and drapes in warm weather.</p>
<h4>Power Strip</h4>
<p>Use a power strip as a central “turn off” point for electronics, video games, and computers when not in use.</p>
<h4>Air register</h4>
<p>Make sure all air registers are clear of furniture so that air can  circulate freely. If your home has radiators, place heat-resistant  reflectors between radiators and walls. In the winter, this will help  heat the room instead of the wall.</p>
<h3>Home Sealing</h3>
<h4>Window</h4>
<p>During the winter months, replace your screens with storm windows to  provide an extra barrier to the cold outside air. Caulk and  weather-strip around windows and door frames that leak air. If  replacing windows, choose ENERGY STAR qualified models designed for  your area, and save $20–95 per year in energy costs. With proper  installation to ensure all gaps around them are sealed, ENERGY STAR  qualified windows can help improve your comfort, cut drafts, and reduce  fading of interior furnishings.</p>
<p>Going beyond your windows and sealing your home’s entire envelope is  one of the most cost-effective ways to reduce your energy bill and  improve your comfort. Home sealing reduces uncomfortable drafts and  helps avoid moisture problems through sealing holes, cracks, and gaps  in the home. Done right, home sealing could save you up to 10 percent  on your home energy bill. You can seal your home yourself with help  from our <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/ia/home_improvement/home_sealing/DIY_COLOR_100_dpi.pdf" target="_blank">Guide to Home Sealing</a> <img src="http://www.energystar.gov/images/pdf_tiny.gif" alt="PDF" width="15" height="16" /> (984KB), or hire a contractor for professional services.</p>
<p>Learn how to fix problems with <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_solutions.hm_improvement_moistureonwin" target="_blank">moisture on windows</a> in your home.</p>
<h4>Fireplace Damper</h4>
<p>Close the flue damper tightly when not in use. Otherwise, warm or air-conditioned air can easily escape from the house.</p>
<p>A chimney is designed to remove by-products from a fire by creating  a draft. The draft also pulls air from your home up the chimney-air  that you’ve paid to cool or heat. Even without a fire in the fireplace,  there still will be a draft in the chimney as long as there’s a  temperature difference between indoors and out. Closing the damper will  keep air conditioned (or warmed) air in the living space where it  belongs.</p>
<h3>Electronics</h3>
<h4>Home Theatre System</h4>
<p>Look for the ENERGY STAR on consumer electronics products. These  products use less energy without sacrificing quality or performance.  Seal any holes with caulk or spray foam where pipes or TV/cable wires  and vents enter or exit your home.</p>
<p>Consumer electronics play an increasingly larger role in your home’s  energy consumption, accounting for up to 15 percent of household  electricity use. Many consumer electronics products use energy even  when switched off. Electronics equipment that has earned the ENERGY  STAR help save energy when off, while maintaining features like clock  displays, channel settings, and remote control functions.</p>
<p>Learn about the <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_podcasts" target="_blank">environmental impact of consumer electronics</a> and what you can do to help.</p>
<h4>Outlet</h4>
<p>Unplug any battery chargers or power adapters when not in use.</p>
<h2>Kitchen</h2>
<p>From appliances and lighting to home sealing, there are several  areas to improve the energy efficiency of your kitchen and save on  energy bills.</p>
<h3>Lighting</h3>
<h4>Light Fixture</h4>
<p>Install ENERGY STAR qualified light fixtures or replace standard  light bulbs with compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) that have  earned the ENERGY STAR.</p>
<p>Kitchen fixtures are some of the most used light fixtures in a home.  ENERGY STAR qualified lighting fixtures are available in popular styles  that may be just right for your kitchen, such as cabinet-mounted,  ceiling-mounted, and recessed can models. ENERGY STAR qualified  lighting provides bright, warm light while using 75% less energy,  generating 70% less heat and lasting up to 10 times longer than  standard lighting.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=cal.showPledge" target="_blank">Take the Change a Light Pledge</a> to replace one light at home with an ENERGY STAR qualified one.</p>
<h4>Light Switch</h4>
<p>Remember to always turn off your lights when leaving a room.</p>
<h3>Heating and Cooling</h3>
<h4>Floor Vents/Radiators</h4>
<p>Make sure all air registers or floor vents are clear of furniture so  that the air can circulate freely. If your home has radiators, place  heat-resistant reflectors between radiators and walls. In the winter,  this will help heat the room instead of the wall.</p>
<h4>Range Hood</h4>
<p>Install an ENERGY STAR qualified kitchen range hood to help control moisture and remove odors from cooking.</p>
<p>ENERGY STAR qualified ventilation fans are much quieter than  standard models. Models that include lighting use 65 percent less  energy on average than standard models, saving $120 in electricity  costs over the life of the fan. Qualified models can be found at many  home improvement stores or from your HVAC or electrical contractor.</p>
<h3>Home Sealing</h3>
<h4>Window</h4>
<p>During the winter months, replace your screens with storm windows to  provide an extra barrier to the cold outside air. Caulk and  weather-strip around windows and door frames that leak air. If  replacing windows, choose ENERGY STAR qualified models designed for  your area, and save $20–$95 per year in energy costs. With proper  installation to ensure all gaps are sealed around them, ENERGY STAR  qualified windows can help improve your comfort, cut drafts, and reduce  fading of interior furnishings.</p>
<p>Going beyond your windows and sealing your home’s entire envelope is  one of the most cost-effective ways to reduce your energy bill and  improve your comfort. Home sealing reduces uncomfortable drafts and  helps avoid moisture problems through sealing holes, cracks, and gaps  in the home. Done right, home sealing could save you up to 10% on your  home energy bill. You can seal your home yourself with help from our <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/ia/home_improvement/home_sealing/DIY_COLOR_100_dpi.pdf" target="_blank">Guide to Home Sealing</a> <img src="http://www.energystar.gov/images/pdf_tiny.gif" alt="PDF" width="15" height="16" /> (984KB), or hire a contractor for professional services.</p>
<p>Learn how to fix problems with <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_solutions.hm_improvement_moistureonwin" target="_blank">moisture on windows</a> in your home.</p>
<h3>Home Electronics</h3>
<h4>Cordless Phones</h4>
<p>Look for ENERGY STAR qualified cordless phones that feature  switch-mode power supplies and “smart” chargers for added energy  savings.</p>
<h3>Appliances</h3>
<h4>Dishwashers</h4>
<p>Save water by scraping dishes instead of rinsing them before loading  in the dishwasher. Run your dishwasher with a full load and use the  air-dry option if available.</p>
<p>Rinsing dirty dishes before loading your dishwasher uses a lot of  water and energy. Most dishwashers today can thoroughly clean dishes  that have had food scraped, rather than rinsed, off — the wash cycle  and detergent take care of the rest. To make the most efficient use of  your dishwasher’s energy and water consumption, run the dishwasher only  when enough dirty dishes have accumulated for a full load.</p>
<p>Replacing an old dishwasher? Appliances account for as much as 20  percent of your energy bill. Newer, more energy-efficient models save  energy and water. If replacing your dishwasher, consider an ENERGY STAR  model, which can save over $25 a year in energy costs.</p>
<h4>Refrigerator</h4>
<p>Look for the ENERGY STAR when purchasing a new refrigerator. Be sure  to recycle your old refrigerator. Think twice before you put the old  refrigerator in the garage or other room of your home.</p>
<p>If your current refrigerator was made before 1993, it uses twice as  much energy as a new ENERGY STAR qualified model. Many homes have older  refrigerators in their garage or basement for overflow storage. These  units can cost $90 or more per year to operate. Replacing an older  model with a new ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerators can save $45–$65  per year.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=refrig.calculator" target="_blank">Find out how much your old refrigerator is costing you</a>.</p>
<h4>Range</h4>
<p>Use the right sized pot on stove burners. A 6? pot on an 8? burner  wastes over 40 percent of the burner’s heat. Also, cover pots and pans  to keep heat in.</p>
<p>Using the right sized pot on stove burners can save about $36  annually for an electric range, or $18 for gas. Covering pots and pans  also helps you cook more efficiently and keeps your kitchen cooler.</p>
<p>Have a gas range? Keep the burners clean to ensure maximum  efficiency. Blue flames mean good combustion; yellow flames mean  service may be needed to ensure the gas is burning efficiently.</p>
<h4>Microwave</h4>
<p>Use your microwave or toaster oven to reheat or cook small portions.</p>
<p>You can reduce cooking energy by as much as 80 percent when using  your microwave for small portions This also helps save on a/c costs in  summer, since less heat is generated when compared to using your stove  or oven.</p>
<h3>Water Usage</h3>
<h4>Kitchen Sink</h4>
<p>Repair any faucet leaks. A leaky faucet can waste gallons of water. Learn more.</p>
<p>Hot water leaking at a rate of one drip per second can waste up to  1,661 gallons of water over the course of a year, and waste up to $35  in electricity or $35 in natural gas. Fixing drips is a cost effective  and easy way to save energy.</p>
<h2>Dining Room</h2>
<p>There are many things you can do to save energy in your dining room.</p>
<h3>Lighting</h3>
<h4>Light Fixture</h4>
<p>Replace light fixtures or the bulbs in them with ENERGY STAR qualified lighting.</p>
<p>Conventional chandeliers with many lights can be one of the highest  wattage fixtures in the home. There are now more stylish and decorative  options in energy-efficient light fixtures available. Look for ENERGY  STAR qualified chandeliers, torchieres, ceiling mounted and wall  sconces at most home centers, lighting showrooms and specialty stores.  ENERGY STAR qualified lighting provides bright, warm light while using  75% less energy, generating 70 percent less heat and lasting up to 10  times longer than standard lighting.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=cal.showPledge" target="_blank">Take the Change a Light Pledge</a> to replace one light at home with an ENERGY STAR qualified one.</p>
<h4>Light Switch</h4>
<p>Remember to always turn off your lights when leaving a room. Turning  off just one 60-watt incandescent bulb, that would otherwise burn eight  hours a day, can save about $15 per year!</p>
<h3>Heating and Cooling</h3>
<h4>Programmable Thermostat</h4>
<p>Install a programmable thermostat to automatically adjust your home’s temperature settings when you’re away or sleeping.</p>
<p>When used properly, a programmable thermostat with its four  temperature settings can save up to $150 a year in energy costs. Learn  how to get this energy savings with ENERGY STAR’s <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=thermostats.pr_thermostats_guidelines" target="_blank">Guidelines for Proper Use of Programmable Thermostats</a>.</p>
<p><strong>Save with a manual thermostat, too!</strong> Every degree you set your thermostat up in hot weather or down in cold weather will help you save on your overall energy bill.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=thermostats.pr_thermostats" target="_top">More info on saving energy with thermostats</a>:  It’s a common misperception that it takes more energy to cool off (or  heat up) a house than it takes to keep it cool all the time. Turning up  the thermostat in summer (or down in winter) will always save energy.  It’s best to only cool (or heat) a house as much as necessary, based on  occupants and time of day.</p>
<p>It’s easy to forget to adjust the thermostat when leaving the house  or going to bed, and it takes time for the house to cool off (or warm  up) once the thermostat is adjusted, which can be uncomfortable. Here’s  where a programmable thermostat pays off, because it automatically  adjusts the temperature when your home is empty, and when you go to  sleep. Total energy savings will depend on your climate and the  efficiency of your house and heating and cooling system.</p>
<h4>Floor Vents/Radiators</h4>
<p>Make sure all air registers or floor vents are clear of furniture so  that the air can circulate freely. If your home has radiators, place  heat-resistant reflectors between radiators and walls. In the winter,  this will help heat the room instead of the wall.</p>
<h3>Home Sealing</h3>
<h4>Sliding Door</h4>
<p>Apply caulking around door frames and weather-stripping around doors  that do not close tightly. If replacing your sliding door, select  ENERGY STAR qualified doors instead of regular clear-glass double-paned  doors. You can save on energy costs while improving your comfort,  cutting drafts, and reducing fading of interior furnishings.</p>
<p>Improve your home’s “envelope” to lower your energy bill and improve  your comfort. Home sealing reduces uncomfortable drafts and helps avoid  moisture problems through sealing holes, cracks, and gaps in the home.</p>
<h4>Electrical Outlet</h4>
<p>Seal any holes around your outlets with an inexpensive outlet gasket.</p>
<h3>Basement</h3>
<p>The basement is a good place to make energy-efficient improvements.  From appliances such as washing machines and dryers to heating and  cooling equipment and home sealing, there are important steps you can  take to improve your home’s energy efficiency, save on energy bills,  and help protect the environment.</p>
<p><strong>Retire your old refrigerator!</strong> After heating,  cooling, and hot water, your old refrigerator is probably the next  largest energy user in your home. New refrigerators are much more  energy-efficient than older models. Get rid of the old fridge lurking  in the basement. Instead, size your refrigerator to meet your needs,  and recycle the old one. If you must have an extra refrigerator or  freezer, buy a new, energy-efficient model. Keep your  refrigerator/freezer as full as possible, and unplug it when empty.  Selling or giving away an old refrigerator means that someone else will  inherit an energy waster for years to come. An older model can cost, on  average, $90 or more per year to operate. <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=refrig.calculator" target="_blank">Find out how much your old refrigerator is costing you</a>.</p>
<h4>Dehumidifier</h4>
<p>Dehumidifiers can remove excess moisture (humidity) from the air in  your home. It is common to have excess moisture in the basement.  Ideally, the comfortable and healthy range of relative humidity is  between 30 and 50 percent. Anything above or below those levels can  cause problems.</p>
<p>Some of the most common indications that you may need a dehumidifier  are: musty smells, presence of mold and mildew, rotting wood,  condensation on windows, and increased allergies (if the air in your  home is too moist, it will encourage the growth of mildew, mites, and  mold-common allergens). To reduce humidity in your basement, make sure  the dryer is not venting inside the basement. Also, be sure to check  that the ground next to the foundation slopes away and outdoor  downspouts lead at least 3 feet away from the foundation. If you decide  you need a dehumidifier for your home, look for one that’s earned the  ENERGY STAR. They use less energy, and can save more than $200 in  energy costs over the life of the unit. Learn more about <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=dehumid.pr_basics_dehumidifiers" target="_blank">what to look for when purchasing a dehumidifier</a>.</p>
<p>Want other ideas on how to <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=dehumid.pr_humidity_dehumidifiers" target="_blank">reduce moisture in your home?</a></p>
<h4>Water Heater</h4>
<p>Set your water heater thermostat to 120 F or lower.</p>
<p>Savings resulting from turning down your water heater temperature  are based on two components: reduced standby losses (heat lost from  water heater into surrounding basement area); and consumption (from  water demand or use in your home). Set too high, or at 140 degrees F,  your water heater can waste anywhere from $36 to $61 annually in  standby heat losses and more than $400 in demand losses. Set at 120  degrees F, you will save energy and money.</p>
<p>If you have an older water heater, you can improve its insulation by  wrapping it with an insulating jacket and save more than $30 per year  in excess heat loss. To help keep your hot water from cooling off  before it gets to the tap, you can insulate the hot water piping,  leaving the water heater for additional savings. Don’t forget to turn  off electric water heaters and turn down gas water heaters when going  away on vacation.</p>
<h3>Heating and Cooling</h3>
<h4>HVAC System</h4>
<p>Check your system’s air filter once a month and replace it at least  every 3 months. Have a pre-season check-up of your system by a licensed  contractor in the Spring and Fall, to ensure all parts are working  properly to avoid early system failure. If your furnace is more than 15  years old, or your a/c unit is more than 12 years old, consider  replacing it with a more efficient and properly sized unit.</p>
<p>As much as half of your household energy use goes to heating and  cooling. Replacing old equipment with more efficient equipment is one  way to save. But equipment is just one part of an entire system that  requires proper sizing, maintenance, properly sized and well-sealed  ducts, insulating ducts in unconditioned spaces and more. For more  information, get a copy of EPA’s <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/ia/products/heat_cool/GUIDE_2COLOR.pdf" target="_blank">A Guide to Energy-Efficient Heating and Cooling</a> <img src="http://www.energystar.gov/images/pdf_tiny.gif" alt="PDF" width="15" height="16" /> (2.6MB)</p>
<p>Bigger doesn’t always mean better. Oversized equipment can cause  reduced comfort and excessive noise. Oversizing also can shorten the  life of the equipment by causing it to cycle on and off more frequently  than a properly sized unit. However, undersized equipment can reduce  the efficiency and accelerate wear on system components, leading to  early failure. For more information about sizing, use our Central Air  Conditioner Sizing Tutorial.</p>
<h3>Appliances</h3>
<h4>Clothes Washer</h4>
<p>Wash your laundry with cold water whenever possible. To save water,  try to wash full loads or, if you must wash a partial load, reduce the  level of water appropriately.</p>
<p>Hot water heating accounts for about 90 percent of the energy your  machine uses to wash clothes — only 10 percent goes to electricity used  by the washer motor. Depending on the clothes and local water quality  (hardness), many homeowners can effectively do laundry exclusively with  cold water, using cold water laundry detergents. Switching to cold  water can save the average household more than $40 annually (with an  electric water heater) and more than $30 annually (with a gas water  heater).</p>
<p>Washing full loads can save you more than 3,400 gallons of water each year.</p>
<p>It’s worth investing in a new, energy-efficient clothes washer if  you are due for a replacement. Many new models are much more efficient  than those manufactured 10–12 years ago. ENERGY STAR qualified clothes  washers use half the energy of standard washers to clean clothes. They  also use less water, and have a better spin cycle allowing for less  drying time.</p>
<h4>Clothes Dryer</h4>
<p>Don’t over-dry your clothes. If your dryer has a moisture sensor  that will automatically turn the machine off when clothes are done, use  it to avoid over drying. Remember to clean the lint trap before every  load. Dry full loads, or reduce drying time for partial loads. Learn  more.</p>
<p>It’s easy to over dry your clothes, if one setting is used for  various fabric types. Try to dry loads made up of similar fabrics, so  the entire load dries just as the cycle ends. Many dryers come with  energy-saving moisture or humidity sensors that shut off the heat when  the clothes are dry. If you don’t have this feature, try to match the  cycle length to the size and weight of the load. A dryer operating an  extra 15 minutes per load can cost you up to $34, every year.</p>
<p>lint trap is an important energy saver. Dryers work by moving heated  air through wet clothes, evaporating and then venting water vapor  outside. If the dryer cannot provide enough heat, or move air  sufficiently through the clothes, they will take longer to dry, and may  not dry at all. One of the easiest things you can do to increase drying  efficiency is to clean the lint trap before each and every load. This  step can save you up to $34 each year.</p>
<h3>Home Sealing</h3>
<h4>Rim joist</h4>
<p>Seal areas between the sill plate and foundation, in cavities  between rim joists and all electrical penetrations, and around pipes  (water, and gas) and ventilation ducts that pass outside of the house.  Seal with either caulk or expanding spray foam.</p>
<p>The basement is one place where the big air leaks are hidden.  Sealing these air leaks can make a big improvement in your home’s  energy use — especially in the winter! For information on how you can  seal your home, get the <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/ia/home_improvement/home_sealing/DIY_COLOR_100_dpi.pdf" target="_blank">Guide to Home Sealing</a> <img src="http://www.energystar.gov/images/pdf_tiny.gif" alt="PDF" width="15" height="16" /> (984KB).</p>
<h4>Dryer Vent</h4>
<p>Vents, ducts, or electrical wires often have holes or gaps around  them which can allow the air in your home to escape, increasing your  energy bill and causing more drafts in your house. Seal small gaps with  caulk and holes up to 3 inches in diameter with spray foam. Cover  spaces larger than 3 inches with a piece of foam board and seal with  spray foam. Learn more in the <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/ia/home_improvement/home_sealing/DIY_COLOR_100_dpi.pdf" target="_blank">Guide to Home Sealing</a> <img src="http://www.energystar.gov/images/pdf_tiny.gif" alt="PDF" width="15" height="16" /> (984KB).</p>
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		<title>The Case for Geothermal</title>
		<link>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/the-case-for-geothermal/page-5</link>
		<comments>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/the-case-for-geothermal/page-5#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 18 May 2009 17:26:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Environmental]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Geothermal]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Heating and Cooling]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[EcoFriendly]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[emerging tech]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Energy Saving]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Green Appliances]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Home and Garden]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[renewable energy]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://webtechblender.com/hinkle/?p=5</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[


Geothermal heating and cooling is based on one simple fact: that 6 feet down in the ground the temperature is the same—between 50?F and 60?F- the whole year round. This means that it is relatively cool in the summer, and relatively warm in the winter. Geothermal heating is thus quite different from solar heating: solar [...]]]></description>
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<p><a href="http://webtechblender.com/hinkle/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/geothermal-heat-pumps.jpg" target="_blank"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-8" style="border: 2px solid black; margin: 5px;" title="geothermal-heat-pumps" src="http://webtechblender.com/hinkle/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/geothermal-heat-pumps-231x300.jpg" alt="" width="231" height="300" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Geothermal heating and cooling is based on one simple fact: that 6 feet down in the ground the temperature is the same—between 50?F and 60?F- the whole year round. This means that it is relatively cool in the summer, and relatively warm in the winter. Geothermal heating is thus quite different from solar heating: solar heating works worst when you most need it&#8211;in the cold, cloudy, snowy conditions of winter; the source for geothermal heating and cooling is not affected by the weather. </strong></p>
<p><strong> For geothermal cooling, all one needs to do is to circulate water in a pipe through the ground to cool it, and use this cool water to cool the air pumped through the house in the heating ducts.</strong></p>
<p><strong> For heating, there is an extra wrinkle. Most of us prefer the temperature in the house in the winter to be nearer 70?F then 60?F, so we need to raise the temperature of the relatively warm air a little. For this we use the gas equation that you may remember from High School Physics: PV=RT. Here P is pressure, V is volume, T is absolute temperature, and R is a constant. If we keep the volume constant, we see that the Pressure is proportional to the Temperature. This means that if we want to raise the temperature of the air a little, then we should increase its pressure a little. To see how much, we must work in absolute temperature, which is 273?+temperature in Celsius (centigrade) . Take an example: suppose the temperature of the water coming out of the ground were 50?F; that is 10?C or 273?+10?=283? absolute. We want to heat the air from 50?F to say 68?F. 68?F is 20?C or 273?+20?=293? absolute. Raising the temperature from 283? to 293?, means that we raise it by (293-283)*100/283 percent, or 3.5 %. That small increase in pressure can easily be done by using a compressor. </strong><a href="http://webtechblender.com/hinkle/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/gph-heating.jpg" target="_blank"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-10" style="border: 3px solid black; margin: 5px;" title="gph-heating" src="http://webtechblender.com/hinkle/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/gph-heating-300x261.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="261" /></a></p>
<p><strong> That is the theory. Now the technology. First we have to build a trench in which to place the pipes carrying the water (actually they add some glycol to it, to improve the performance). For our installation we had 3 trenches each 300ft long, 5ft wide and 5ft deep. Each trench had four 4inch pvc pipes in it; 3600 ft in all. Typically the trenches are 5ft deep, rather than 6ft, because all kinds of safety regulations come into play in building a 6ft trench. The 4inch pipes are fed from one large pipe coming from the basement, and they are funnelled back into a large pipe as they return to the basement. The whole system is filled with water and sealed. There is a pump in the basement that circulates the water through the pipes, and brings the warm water back into the basement. The water then goes into a heat exchanger. A heat exchanger does just that: it takes the heat out of the water and heats air that runs through pipes through the water. A heat exchanger is rather like two clasped hands, with the fingers of one hand interleaved with the fingers of the other. One set of fingers carries the warm water, the other carries the air to be heated. </strong></p>
<p><strong> After being heated by the water, the air enters a compressor where it is warmed further, before feeding it into the air ducts. It is possible to have the pipes running deep down into the ground, rather than running horizontally 5ft down. If there is a lake or a deep river, then the pipes can run through the water, rather than through the ground. </strong></p>
<p><strong> Now the money matters. We live in the country. In the winter of 2004/5 we spent about $2,500 on oil for our oil furnace. If we had kept the furnace, then we would have spent about $3,000 in the winter of 2005/6. The geothermal system has four parts: the pump to move the water around the circuit, the compressor, the heat exchanger, and the fan to blow the air through the house; those cost $18,000. The trench and pipes cost $2,000, and the necessary changes to the electrical system in the house cost another $2,000. We received a rebate of $600 on the items from the Ontario Government, and another $1,400 from a government conservation initiative. </strong></p>
<p><strong> When the system is running at moderate strength it takes 1500 KWH, about the same as a single baseboard heater; when it is running at high, it uses 2200KWH, and when the fan alone is working, then it uses 500KWH. Our electrical bill has increased by about $150 per month for the winter months. </strong></p>
<p><strong> We did not have air conditioning before; the air conditioning is set to come on when the temperature in the house reaches 75?F, which is not often. The biggest difference in the winter months is in the quality of the air inside the house. There is now no combustion, so no loss of oxygen, as there is with an oil furnace. As far as conservation is concerned, we save about 8 tons of carbon dioxide per year!</strong></p>
<p>A few additional points. Obviously geothermal doesn’t work for everyone. My father has a luxury of a large backyard, so he could fit all that piping easily into shallow trenches. If you don’t have that much room, as he points out, you have to dig down—and that’s obviously more expensive. I’m not suggesting, in other words, that this is going to solve the energy crisis. But surely there are lots of lots of houses—as well as commercial buildings (like malls, with huge parking lots) that could easily install geothermal systems, and even a modest application of technologies like this could begin to make a real difference in our energy problems.</p>
<p>I think it is also worth noting how absurdly low-tech the system is. It is pvc pipes and a compressor. My father lives in Ontario, where the winters can be vicious, and has thrown out his furnace! The other noteworthy fact is how (relatively) inexpensive the system is. For an investment of $25,000, my father saves, conservatively, $2000 a year (remember; he wasn’t running air conditioning in the summer before this, so the financial benefits of his system are substantially understated.</p>
<p>One of the frustrating things about the current discussion over our dependence on imported oil is the persistent notion that real solutions will require some future technological breakthrough. I think we have a lot of the answers. We just haven’t made consumers and public officials aware of them.</p></div>
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		<title>Pennsylvania&#8217;s Special Low Rate, Low Payment Financing Program for Energy Efficiency Home Improvements</title>
		<link>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/pennsylvanias-special-low-rate-low-payment-financing-program-for-energy-efficiency-home-improvements/page-288</link>
		<comments>http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/pennsylvanias-special-low-rate-low-payment-financing-program-for-energy-efficiency-home-improvements/page-288#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Jan 2009 17:11:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[ENERGY STAR]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Environmental]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Geothermal]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Heating and Cooling]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Keystone HELP®]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hinklesheatingandairconditioningservice.com/?p=288</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[With the Keystone HELP® Energy Efficiency Program, most Pennsylvania homeowners who meet the program&#8217;s eligibility guidelines can get a low cost loan for ENERGY STAR®rated and high efficiency heating, air conditioning, air sealing, insulation, windows, doors, geothermal and “whole house” improvements using Home Performance with ENERGY STAR®. These lower rates can save consumer thousands of dollars over the life [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span class="style11"><span class="style47">With the <strong>Keystone HELP® Energy Efficiency Program</strong>, most Pennsylvania homeowners who meet the program&#8217;s <a href="http://www.keystonehelp.com/info/who.php" target="_blank"><strong>eligibility guidelines</strong></a> can get a low cost loan for <a href="http://energystar.gov/" target="_blank"><strong>ENERGY STAR®</strong></a>rated and high efficiency <strong>heating, air conditioning, air sealing, insulation, windows, doors, geothermal and “whole house” improvements</strong> using Home Performance with ENERGY STAR®. </span></span><span class="style47">These lower rates can save consumer thousands of dollars over the life of the loan, further enhancing the energy saving from the improvements being made and minimizing out of pocket costs.</span></p>
<ul>
<p class="style47"><strong>Save Energy, Save Money</strong> with Keystone HELP®, Pennsylvania&#8217;s special program to make energy efficiency opportunities available to the Commonwealth&#8217;s homeowners.</p>
<li class="style47">For more information, <a href="http://afcfirst.com/info/contact.php" target="_blank">Keystone HELP®</a> at (888) 232-3477.</li>
<li class="style47"><a href="http://www.keystonehelp.com/documents/keystoneHELPFolded081809.pdf" target="_blank"><strong>Download a Keystone HELP Brochure</strong></a></li>
<li class="style47"><a href="http://www.keystonehelp.com/documents/KeystoneHELPGuidelines08-05-09FINAL.pdf" target="_blank"><strong>Download Keystone HELP Program Guidelines</strong></a></li>
</ul>
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